Pat the beef cubes very dry with paper towels, dry meat is the whole game here. Season all over with the salt and pepper, then toss in the flour until lightly and evenly coated. Shake off the excess.

Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a heavy Dutch oven over medium-high until shimmering. Add the beef in a single layer with space between each piece, work in 3 batches so you never crowd the pot. Sear undisturbed 2-3 minutes per side until each piece has a deep brown crust. Move seared beef to a plate and repeat, adding the last tablespoon of oil as needed. This is the one trick: a hard sear in batches builds the fond that flavors the entire stew.

Lower the heat to medium. Add the tomato paste and onion to the pot and cook, stirring, for 3-4 minutes until the paste darkens a shade and the onion softens. Stir in the garlic and cook 30 seconds.

Pour in the red wine and scrape every browned bit off the bottom of the pot with a wooden spoon, that fond is pure flavor. Simmer 2 minutes to cook off the raw alcohol.

Return the beef and any juices to the pot. Add the beef broth, Worcestershire, bay leaves and thyme. Bring to a gentle simmer, then cover and reduce the heat to low. Simmer 1 1/2 to 2 hours, stirring occasionally, until the beef is nearly fork-tender.

Add the potatoes, carrots and celery. Cover and simmer 30-40 minutes more, until the vegetables are tender and the beef falls apart easily.

Fish out the bay leaves and thyme stems. Stir in the frozen peas and let them warm through for 2-3 minutes. Taste and adjust salt and pepper. If you want it thicker, mash a few potato pieces against the side of the pot or simmer uncovered a few extra minutes.

Let the stew rest 10 minutes off the heat before serving, it thickens and the flavors settle. Serve in bowls with crusty bread or over mashed potatoes.