Heat the olive oil in a large heavy pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add the ground beef and cook, breaking it up with a spoon, until it is well browned with some crusty bits, 8 to 10 minutes. Do not rush it to gray, you want real color. If there is a lot of grease, spoon off all but about 2 tablespoons.

Add the diced onion and red bell pepper to the pot and cook until softened, 5 to 6 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook 30 seconds more, until fragrant.

The one trick: make a clearing in the middle of the pot and add the tomato paste, chili powder, cumin, smoked paprika, oregano, and cayenne right into the hot fat. Stir constantly for 60 to 90 seconds, until the spices smell toasty and the tomato paste darkens a shade. This is the step most people skip, and it is the whole difference.

Pour in the crushed tomatoes, diced tomatoes, beef broth, Worcestershire, and brown sugar, scraping up the browned bits from the bottom of the pot. Stir in the salt and black pepper and bring everything to a gentle simmer.

Reduce the heat to low, partially cover, and simmer for at least 45 minutes, up to 90 for even deeper flavor, stirring now and then so nothing sticks to the bottom.

Stir in the drained kidney and pinto beans and simmer uncovered for another 20 to 30 minutes, until the chili is thick enough to mound on a spoon. For a thicker pot, stir the masa harina with a splash of water and stir it in, then simmer 5 minutes more.

Taste and adjust the salt and heat. Ladle into bowls and pile on the shredded cheddar, sour cream, green onions, and jalapenos.