Set an oven rack in the lower third and preheat to 425F. Roll your crust into a 9-inch pie plate, trim and crimp the edges, then chill it in the freezer for 20 minutes so it holds its shape.

Line the chilled crust with parchment and fill with pie weights or dried beans. Blind-bake 15 minutes, then remove the parchment and weights and bake 5 minutes more, until the bottom looks dry and pale gold. This is what keeps the bottom from going soggy under the wet custard.

While the crust chills, scrape the pumpkin into a saucepan with the brown sugar, cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, cloves, and salt. Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, for 5 to 7 minutes.

You want it to thicken, darken a shade, and start to sputter and smell toasty. That is you cooking off the raw water and waking up the spices. Pull it off the heat, stir in the vanilla, and let it cool for about 5 minutes.

Whisk the eggs in a large bowl. Whisk in the warm pumpkin mixture, then the evaporated milk and heavy cream, until everything is smooth and pourable.

Pour the filling into the par-baked crust. Reduce the oven to 350F and bake 45 to 55 minutes. Pull it when the edges are set but the center 2 to 3 inches still jiggle like Jell-O (about 175F in the middle). Tent the crust edge with foil if it is browning too fast.

Cool the pie completely on a rack, at least 3 hours, then chill before slicing. The custard finishes setting as it cools. Serve with a big spoon of whipped cream.